Have you seen the Westray Wave?
Heard of it? A freak “Atlantic Sea meets North Sea” phenomenon? Not quite.
I discovered it as I drove off the ferry on the island: a car passed me heading south, the driver gave a brief salute whilst still holding their steering wheel (like the Brownie salute - three fingers together raised facing you). What had I done? I hadn’t swerved or made a Highway Code error. I absolutely didn’t know them.
This “one off” however quickly became the norm. Every passing driver. Every vehicle; car, tractor or cyclist. The same salute. Disarming. Welcoming and inclusive. I felt like an islander in minutes.
Westray, the “Queen o’ the Isles’; wildlife haven, remote refuge, and home to a handful of Orkney’s most talented yet hidden creators and producers.
Gills Bay
Wild sea cliffs and abundant birdlife contrast with sandy topaz blue bays. Buildings are sparse and blend tonally into the landscape; crofts are either crumbling and abandoned or sympathetically renovated. April in the sunshine belied the brutal weather beating that often hits the island: apparently no tree grows more than waist high.
The local producers I discovered on my visit without doubt made the most of this local landscape;
Wilson’s of Westray, produce artisan cheese from their small herd of pedigree Ayrshires, including the award winning Westray Wife cheese; awarded Gold at the Royal Highland Show in 2017. Westray Wife is a traditional washed-rind creamy tasting yet firm artisan cheese named after a figurine found on an archaeological dig on the island; its almost like an alpine cheese and can be bought through local stockists on Westray and via key food retail outlets on mainland Orkney.
The Westray Bakehouse has been carefully baking biscuits, bread and rolls from personal family recipes since 1892. Based on Gills Pier overlooking the harbour near Pierowall, Duncan, Louise and their daughter Anna now produce a wide range of savoury biscuits, oatcakes, sweet biscuits (including so moreish shortbread) and bread that can be bought in the stores on Westray and mainland Orkney. You can also now order their biscuits for nationwide delivery through Jolly’s of Orkney and Judith Glue Hampers (all the details for this are on their website).
Pierowall Fish is a small business run by Kevin and Ann Rendall on the beautiful island of Westray. Their fish is sourced locally from the white fish boat Keila and from the Shetland and Scrabster markets; supplying fresh, frozen and smoked, which is all hand filleted and cured on the premises. They also produce a small range of cooked products, some of which are seasonal; details can be found on the products page of their website. You can buy their produce directly from their small shop outlet in their new premises in Broughton (as well as outstanding fish and chips on selected days of the week – call ahead to place an order if you’re on a day trip to Westray!). In addition they supply local shops on Westray as well as stores and trade on Orkney.
At Wheeling Steen Gallery, discover a studio in a cabin of a 19th century shipwreck. At the north end of Westray it is run by Edwin with his wife Elaine and daughter Rosemary. Here, Edwin and Rosemary create photography, original art, prints and handmade cards all beautifully depicting the scenery and wildlife of the island. Cold drinks, snacks and sweets are available; don’t forget to ask Edwin about the history of the shipwreck while your coffee is being prepared.
Westray Art Gallery is located in the heart of the island’s only town. Since 2004 The Gallery has been the home, studio and exhibition gallery of artist Peter Brown. The aim of The Gallery is to present ongoing exhibitions of contemporary paintings, prints and artworks by Peter in an inviting and stimulating setting. Also on show is the work by guest artists.
Westray Gallery - by Peter Brown
If you know of any other Westray secret producers please do let me know. I’ve added these ones to the Produced Nearby map; have a look to find more details and how to get in touch with them. If you visit them this summer don’t forget to practise your Westray Wave…
